Boalt Hall Dining Guide Special Edition

(somewhat dated but mostly reliable according to recent users)

TUSCANY DINING

We spent the first half of 1993 living in Florence, and this little guide shares some of our dining experiences. Dinner (and lunch) reservations are often required. Earliest dinner seating is typically 8 p.m. In Florence and many other Italian cities, masses of people are out strolling on the streets from 5 - 8 p.m. The Access guide to Florence, Venice and Milan is very good for food. The Cadogan guide overall is splendid for Tuscany as a whole, although it has few restaurant suggestions for Florence. The Michelin red guide tends to emphasize more expensive, and to us less appealing, eating places.

I. Florence

A. Restaurants North of the Arno (the main side of the river)

Cibreo (back and front). Our favorite in Florence, via dei Macci 118R, near the large San Ambrogio market. To sit in the informal back room behind the kitchen, arrive early (they open at 8, but it is wise to be in line at the back door off Piazza Ghiberti by 7:45) or late. It's lots of fun, good food, shared tables, and low prices. After the meal, go across the street to the cafe for coffee. For fancier service and surroundings (and higher prices), reserve a table out in the front dining room.

Garga (near Piazza Goldoni). Hip place with a casual yet lively and very appealing atmosphere. Many splendid dishes, like pasta with clams.

Sostanza, via della Porcellana 25. Old-time trattoria. Lots of food. Appealing surroundings. Shared tables at times. The steaks are great, so too the veal and chicken. (An extremely popular place said to be like Sostanza and in the same neighborhood is I Latini, via Palchetti 6R. Yet another is Ristorante Il Profeta on Borgo Ognissanti.)

Coco Lezzone, via del Parioncino 26R. Yet another shared-table, famous trattoria. A little run down.

Gato et Volpe. Near the Piazza della Signoria. Lively place to have pizza, open fairly late.

Il Camineto. Near the Duomo on via dello Studio, outdoors for lunch.

Acqua Al Due, via Vigna Vechia 40R. Very popular. Crowded. Try the four pasta dish.

Za-Za, Piazza Mercato Centrale. Very old time traditional place next to the central food market at San Lorenzo. Best for lunch.

Or for real authentic dining, try going inside the San Lorenzo central market on the first floor and eating from one of the little places located there; for a snack, try the tripe stands just outside the market. Perhaps even better food may be found at the little restaurant inside the San Ambrogio market.

Trattoria La Baraonda, via Ghibellina 67R. Much recommended, simple place with good food. The host is a bit loud, speaking to the whole place in english while taking your order,

Several nice little neighborhood places may be found in the narrow streets in the vicinity of Santa Croce, the names of which escape me for now.

A nice little place with outdoor tables may be found on the tiny little piazza directly across from the American Express office (and if you use AMEX as a travel agent, ask for Sonya Cotto who is great).

We were very lucky to attend a fund raising event for Kate's school in the Palazzo Antinori at the top of via Tornabouni and learned that two good restaurants are located in the building -- a very classy wine bar on the ground floor and a trattoria below.

B. Restaurants across the Arno (where we lived on via San Niccolo near the Porta San Miniato)

Pane e Vino, via San Niccolo 60R, is a wonderful local neighborhood place with inventive food including many vegetarian dishes. Great wines.

Grandarchduco. Simple, friendly, ask them to bring what they recommend. On via San Niccolo (about 10R) near Porta San Niccolo.

Osteria, via San Niccolo 46, was our local wine bar with hearty simple food, serving both at lunch and late into the evening.

Le Rampe (half way up the winding road up to Piazza Michelangelo). Pizza and more with great views of the river and town with several outdoor tables (call ahead to reserve these). Very casual.

Cammillo. Popular favorite near the Ponte Vecchio on Borgo San Jacopo. Simple, traditional food.

Cingale Blanc. Similar to Cammillo, and down the street, perhaps rather more fun with a somewhat more limited menu.

Borgo Antiquo. Pizza plus on the Piazza San Spirito. Good for lunch; outdoor dining on the square.

Il Barone di Porta Romana, on via Romana near Porta Romana. Very odd place, indoor/outdoor "garden" in back. But some lovely food served in a striking way.

Le Quatro Stagione, Via Maggio by the Pitti Palace. Reliable and inventive.

Omero. The quintessential trattoria, just a bit out of town, with views to the hills. Can actually be reached via a regular city bus from Porta Romana or a stiff gorgeous walk. Hearty.

C. Fancier dining.

We went to a few fancy place you are probably better off avoiding. Also Florence's sole Michelin-starred place (Enoteca Pinchiorri), we are told, is very expensive and not worth it.

Harry's Bar. Yes, there is a Florence version, and Karen went to a posh event there. Fancy, expensive, good food and service. But why?

Relais le Jardin left me feeling the same way. In a Relais and Chateaux hotel, this small and lovely restaurant serves international cuisine. We may as well have been in the french part of Switzerland. Expensive.

The Excelsior is a top of the line hotel that could have been almost anywhere, even though the food was fine.

D. Cafe life, gelato and pastry

Florence has countless cafes, many of which are marvelous. Three of the most famous are:

Gilli on the Piazza della Repubblica (next door is Pazkowski, much the same)

Rivoire on the Piazza della Signoria

Giacosa on via Tornabuoni near the Palazzo Strozzi

These three are cheap at the bar and expensive if you are served at a table. They are all much discovered, and all much to be enjoyed.

Il Rifullo, via San Niccolo 37 right across from our apartment, on the way walking up to San Miniato, Fort Belvedere or Piazza Michelangelo, a block before you pass through the little Porta San Miniato, is a popular and good cafe.

There is a nice cafe to have tea or coffee in the evening across from the Pitti Palace with a few outdoor tables.

There is also a nice cafe in Piazza San Marco on the corner.

A lively stand up cafe near in via dell'Orivolo on the bus route to the Duomo from Santa Croce (exit as it turns left off via Verdi and look across the street) with great pastry.

Florence also has countless gelato places, most of which are marvelous.

Probably most famous is Vivoli, near Santa Croce and literally across from the Astra movie theatre which is open Tues - Sunday showing each night for a week the same American film in english.

There is a fine gelato place next door to Il Rifullo, see above. In the main walking streets there are also many such places, like I Cavini, Perche No?, and the place at the foot of the Ponte Vecchio on the main side of town.

There are also little stand up places where you drink a glass of wine and eat a sandwich. My favorite is Noe under the Arches (Arco de S. Piero,, just off the top end of via Verdi), and its roast pork loin sandwiches are fabulous.

People are constantly eating lovely food at the bar in cafes, but Florence isn't really set up for picnics, and people don't really eat walking in the streets (apart from gelato).

A modest hotel recommendation for Florence is the Hotel Hermitage right on the main side of the Arno just a few feet away from the Ponte Vecchio. It has simple rooms (some with views of the river, others that are quieter with views of rooftops), air conditioning, a nice roof garden, a cute breakfast room overlooking the river, and a reasonable price (about $100 a day for two with breakfast).

As for the tourist life, here are a few "must see" favorite of ours for those who love frescoes: San Miniato (and the late afternoon chanted service); the Brancacci chapel at Santa Maria del Carmine for Massaccio, the start of Renaissance painting; San Marco Museum for Fra Angelico; Santa Maria Novella, and do not miss the dazzling Green Chapel off to the side; the little chapel upstairs in the Medici palace for Gozzoli's wonder; Santa Trinita; and the Ognissanti refectory. To see one truly sublime painting, go to Orsanmichele. For the best view, walk up to Fort Belvedere rather than Piazza Michaelangelo.

II. Outside Florence

A. To the north.

On the northern outskirts of Florence at the edge of Fiesole in the tiny village of Maiano is located Cave di Maiano. This is a wonderful country restaurant with traditional food, well done, nicely served, with a large and fine terrace for warmer weather.

In Fiesole on the northern edge of Florence is located Villa San Michele, a very expensive (Relais et Chateaux) small hotel containing a very expensive international restaurant with an enchanting view of Florence below. In warm weather you sit on the splendid terrace and look out and marvel. Alas, the food disappoints, and our service was extremely off-putting. The Villa San Michele also has superb grounds/gardens.

There are many other restaurants and cafes in Fiesole itself, which can be reached on the number 7 bus. Watch out for pickpockets on this route!! One much praised choice is La Reggia, Via S. Francesco 18.

Prato, a separate city that is quite close by train, has many marvelous things to see (churches, museums, etc.), and is surprisingly self-contained and untouristic. I never found anywhere special to eat.

B. To the west.

In Artimino is Da Delfina, our favorite restaurant in Tuscany -- especially if you can eat outside on the terrace for a long leisurely lunch. A fabulous view of a Medici palace (itself worth a little visit to snoop around though not exactly fully open to the public). We often combined Da Delfina with a trip to Vinci to see the DaVinci museum containing models based on many of his drawings. Da Delfina offers great vegetarian items (and you can make a meal of them) as well as marvelous grilled and roasted things of all sorts. Have many courses; share things. Drink the local wine. About a 40 minute drive.

Lucca is a charming city, absolutely worth a visit, about an hour to the west on the fast bus. Few tourists. Great churches. Wonderful streets for wandering. Fabulous "walls" surround the city on which you can stroll or ride bicycles. Dining is a bit tricky, but we found one rather nice place, Ristorante All'Olivo, Piazza S. Quirico 1.

C. To the south.

In Bagno a Ripoli, on the SE suburban outskirts of Florence, you can find Centani, a lovely country restaurant. Fantastic views of rolling hills and olive groves from the windows, and on warmer days, dining in the courtyard/terrace. Again, go for a long lunch.

Siena, of course, is a must. I wish we'd gone more often. Although I don't really remember eating anywhere special, one reader proposes Ristorante Guido, Vicolo Pier Pettinaio 7. There are also some splendid choices in nearby towns.

In Monterrigioni, a tiny hill town in the vicinity of Siena, only a few blocks in size with no cars inside the walls, there are two traditional restaurants, both said to be good. Il Pozzo was excellent. Cozy, charming, nice service. Enjoy.

In San Giminignano, we enjoyed Le Terrazze, a traditional restaurant in a hotel, with great views out from this justly, most famous hill town with startling towers in great profusion. Surprisingly nice food for a completely tourist town. (Others recommend Dorando in this town, but I don't think it has views.)

In Montefollonico, also in the vicinity of Siena, you might want to try La Chiusa, said by Portola Valley friends who tried everywhere to be their favorite in Tuscany. Famous and vivacious hostess, marvelous food, great setting and very expensive.

In Colle, again in the vicinity of Siena, Arnolfo is said to be excellent by our art history teacher who lives nearby.

In Cerbaia, south of Florence at the edge of Chianti-shire, is La Tenda Rossa, said by some to be among the two or three most elegant and ambitious places in Tuscany. We went for lunch and it was a big mistake. Much too expensive. Much too pretentious. Virtually no one there. Fancy decor that we didn't like. The food was good, but not to rave about. Maybe at dinner with someone with bags of money who wants to be startled to see such fanciness inside an unassuming from the street place on the main square of a little town.

On the edge of Castelfranco di Sopra, south east of Florence, we ran into Vicolo de Contento. We stopped by for lunch, but they weren't serving. It looked marvelous. Truly in the country, a few rooms for the night if needed, charming but classy dining room and a very appealing menu. Said to be great by friends who tried it.

In Mercatale, south of Florence, La Biscondola is an informal place serving very good food, with lots of tables outside, in the country on the edge of the small village. Said by friends who live in Florence to be best for Sunday lunch when it is packed with animated Italian families.

Badia e Coltibuono is along the Chiantigiana south of Florence. Home of Lorenza di Medici who is somewhat of an international celebrity and book writer. Makers of well known olive oils and wines. Outstanding gardens. Cooking school, I think. The restaurant was not open on our attempted visit (opening in mid May of 1993).

In La Piazza, in southern Tuscany, Osteria alla Piazza is said to be a fun place to stop, especially if breaking up the trip from Rome to Florence. (Orvieto is closer to Rome and an interesting town because of its fabulous cathedral. We only had a snack there.)